Tools and Shop Talk - Opinions, Thoughts, Reviews, B.S., etc.

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Best brake line flaring tool?

Mastercool hydraulic is well liked on other forums. Positioning the line stickout in the holder looks fumbly. Also has 37deg dies available for hydraulic hard lines.
Eastwood Hydraulic flare looks very similar, and looks to have an alignment die to set the starting depth.

looking for a buy-it-for-life kind of deal. Anybody used one of these or something else?
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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Best brake line flaring tool?

Mastercool hydraulic is well liked on other forums. Positioning the line stickout in the holder looks fumbly. Also has 37deg dies available for hydraulic hard lines.
Eastwood Hydraulic flare looks very similar, and looks to have an alignment die to set the starting depth.

looking for a buy-it-for-life kind of deal. Anybody used one of these or something else?
Unless you're planning on snapping and replacing brake lines on a regular basis why not just rent one from AutoZone.
 

eimkeith

IFSFFS.
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Best brake line flaring tool?

Mastercool hydraulic is well liked on other forums. Positioning the line stickout in the holder looks fumbly. Also has 37deg dies available for hydraulic hard lines.
Eastwood Hydraulic flare looks very similar, and looks to have an alignment die to set the starting depth.

looking for a buy-it-for-life kind of deal. Anybody used one of these or something else?
I was eyeing that Eastwood one too... (so buy it and let me know if it sucks)
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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A good flare tool is definitely worth the money to avoid the hassle and frustration. I don’t have any experience with either of those but I want to get a better set. My dumbass bought a harbor freight kit. Sucks balls.
 
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I have this old set I picked up along the way. Check a used tool store. In Tucson we got Kent’s, maybe a pawn shop. I’ve never used it for brake line, shit, it might be only for water Lines. Dumbass of the moment. image.jpg
 
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I have this old set I picked up along the way. Check a used tool store. In Tucson we got Kent’s, maybe a pawn shop. I’ve never used it for brake line, shit, it might be only for water Lines. Dumbass of the moment. View attachment 25409
Definitely missing the adapters to do a double flare.
I have done single flares for brake lines back in the day, but I didn't know any better.
 
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Best brake line flaring tool?

Mastercool hydraulic is well liked on other forums. Positioning the line stickout in the holder looks fumbly. Also has 37deg dies available for hydraulic hard lines.
Eastwood Hydraulic flare looks very similar, and looks to have an alignment die to set the starting depth.

looking for a buy-it-for-life kind of deal. Anybody used one of these or something else?
Why do hard lines when you can get soft lines and fittings for stupid cheap from kartek. Way less time and effort. Measure with a string and order the lengths you need. My truck is all soft lines except for part of the fronts ones since those have been changed/needed to be changed.
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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Why do hard lines when you can get soft lines and fittings for stupid cheap from kartek. Way less time and effort. Measure with a string and order the lengths you need. My truck is all soft lines except for part of the fronts ones since those have been changed/needed to be changed.
I'll definitely be doing this when I put the front end back together on mine. That 6" hard line on the spindle is dumb.
 
Joined
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Why do hard lines when you can get soft lines and fittings for stupid cheap from kartek. Way less time and effort. Measure with a string and order the lengths you need. My truck is all soft lines except for part of the fronts ones since those have been changed/needed to be changed.
I was under the impression long runs of soft lines were less than ideal. I'm looking to reroute all the hardlines on the rear axle and replumb the rear proportioning valve so it's a fair amount on length. To me hardlines look pretty tidy.

:noidea:
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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I was under the impression long runs of soft lines were less than ideal. I'm looking to reroute all the hardlines on the rear axle and replumb the rear proportioning valve so it's a fair amount on length. To me hardlines look pretty tidy.

:noidea:
Certainly long runs of soft rubber tube are non-ideal, but using a PFTE/SS braid there isn't any limit I'm aware of. It's just a hydraulic system.
 

kasnerd

never a mile from a good burrito
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Certainly long runs of soft rubber tube are non-ideal, but using a PFTE/SS braid there isn't any limit I'm aware of. It's just a hydraulic system.
this. I would worry more about vibration along the frame for soft lines rather than think about expansion. Ideally the short runs, better to eliminate fittings and replace with braided stainless steel. Hard lines for long runs. It's worked for since forever.
 

Arcticelf

Head BFH Operator at Gray Man Fab
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this. I would worry more about vibration along the frame for soft lines rather than think about expansion. Ideally the short runs, better to eliminate fittings and replace with braided stainless steel. Hard lines for long runs. It's worked for since forever.
Yes, for the long runs along the frame, rear axle, etc hard lines make sense. A 6" hardline on the spindle though? Or the 6" hard line from the block to the flex line going to the spindle? That's just extra ass-pain, fittings and opportunities to strip a nut.
 

kasnerd

never a mile from a good burrito
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Yes, for the long runs along the frame, rear axle, etc hard lines make sense. A 6" hardline on the spindle though? Or the 6" hard line from the block to the flex line going to the spindle? That's just extra ass-pain, fittings and opportunities to strip a nut.
yea i got rid of the hard line for the spindle. F that noise.
 
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I ran steel braided lines from kartek front all the way to the rear. Way easier to work with and cheaper and no crimping to worry about. Only hard line left now is from the t after the master going to each front line then soft lines from frame down.

here’s mine coming down to the rear axle from inside the cab for cutting brakes,line lock and proportioning valve. Replaced the plastic zip ties with stainless steel since then and added a few more zip tie tabs from ruffstuff. Really cleans it up and I carry an extra line which makes it super easy to replace if it ever gets snagged on the trail. Also carry some caps so if they ever leak or stop working I can undo it from the caliper and cap it.
B78127DB-C277-4FBB-A361-1BA45B97CB6D.jpeg
 
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