Transfer Case Issues?

AssBurns

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On my way home from my last trip out to the desert I had this weird binding/ clunking noise and a tire chirp coming from somewhere in my drive-train. Saturday, I drove it around town a little after I replaced the steering rack and only noticed it when making turns, so I thought it might be my spider gears in the rear end. But last night I was moving the truck from the street to the garage and I noticed the 4wd lights flashing. I verified that I wasn't in 4wd or AWD. I drove around the block and the lights stopped flashing after a little bit of driving (Normally it engages or disengages really quickly). As I was pulling into the garage I heard the clunk and a tire chirp again, so I back up a couple times and was able to make it happen again. It almost felt as if 4wd engaged and chirped the tires, but it was hard to really tell where it came from (Whether it was the rear diff or t-case).
One concern I had that makes me think it might be the transfer case is that I was driving around in the desert in AWD mode most of the weekend. I'm wondering if that caused any sort of issue with how hard I was driving in that mode. Does it make any difference whether the center diff lock is engaged?

I was searching for some diagrams on the transfer case to get some ideas on failures and found a picture and PDF that shows some pretty good and detailed information on how the AWD works on the multimode transfer cases. The PDF is attached.

Multimode Transfercase Diagram.jpg
 

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4runner DOA

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I drive around in AWD without the center diff locked all the time. Shouldn't make a bit of difference. You'll have noticeable binding with the center diff locked on pavement though. That's how I knew mine was stuck last year.
 

AssBurns

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I drive around in AWD without the center diff locked all the time. Shouldn't make a bit of difference. You'll have noticeable binding with the center diff locked on pavement though. That's how I knew mine was stuck last year.
Well I know driving around town is fine for AWD, but is it bad to haul ass through the desert for hours on end all week?

I’m gonna jack the rear end up tonight and spin the wheels to see if it’s the spider gears. Not sure what’s better, diff or tcase?
 

4runner DOA

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Well I know driving around town is fine for AWD, but is it bad to haul ass through the desert for hours on end all week?

I’m gonna jack the rear end up tonight and spin the wheels to see if it’s the spider gears. Not sure what’s better, diff or tcase?

Naw. First year in death valley I spent 5 days bombing around on AWD.
 

theesotericone

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I’m gonna jack the rear end up tonight and spin the wheels to see if it’s the spider gears. Not sure what’s better, diff or tcase?

Diff's better. Pulling the t-case isn't bad but there's a lot of little parts in the thing. At least the diff can just go back to ECGS.

It should be fine in AWD but you put a lot of miles on that t-case. The first thing I'd do is pull the nail you have in the ADD vacuum line and see if you can get it to do it then. There's no way it will engage 4wd without vacuum so that should help narrow it down.
 

AssBurns

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Diff's better. Pulling the t-case isn't bad but there's a lot of little parts in the thing. At least the diff can just go back to ECGS.

It should be fine in AWD but you put a lot of miles on that t-case. The first thing I'd do is pull the nail you have in the ADD vacuum line and see if you can get it to do it then. There's no way it will engage 4wd without vacuum so that should help narrow it down.
True, plus I gotta pull the crossmember to pull the t-case.

I’ll make sure it’s got vacuum. It could be something there, but the vacuum is only for the ADD. The t case is motor actuated, right?
 

theesotericone

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True, plus I gotta pull the crossmember to pull the t-case.

I’ll make sure it’s got vacuum. It could be something there, but the vacuum is only for the ADD. The t case is motor actuated, right?

It is motor actuated. The order of engagement should be t-case then ADD. So if you disconnect the ADD and it still does it that narrows it down to the t-case I would think.
 

AssBurns

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It is motor actuated. The order of engagement should be t-case then ADD. So if you disconnect the ADD and it still does it that narrows it down to the t-case I would think.
I guess that’s a good idea. Too sick to go out there and dick with it tonight though.
 
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