Transmission Coolers

[AssBurns]

I am definitely in need of a transmission cooler, and I am wondering which one to get. My trans heats up way too easy in the go-fast wheeling I like to do, where I'm always on and off the throttle hard and constantly shifting.

I've seen some folks running the B&M ones that have the bypass valve that only works when the fluid gets hot, and I've seen people use the Hayden coolers that don't have any sort of bypass feature. I live in SoCal where the temps don't really ever get below freezing, and stay pretty warm most of the year. I'm sure I'd be just fine with a Hayden cooler, but just getting some opinions on which ones you all prefer. Should I run it before or after the radiator, since there is a trans cooler built in there? Does it really make that big of a difference?

Also I'm assuming bigger is better. Get the biggest one that can fit seems like the best idea, right?

 

[4runner DOA]

I am definitely in need of a transmission cooler, and I am wondering which one to get. My trans heats up way too easy in the go-fast wheeling I like to do, where I'm always on and off the throttle hard and constantly shifting.

I've seen some folks running the B&M ones that have the bypass valve that only works when the fluid gets hot, and I've seen people use the Hayden coolers that don't have any sort of bypass feature. I live in SoCal where the temps don't really ever get below freezing, and stay pretty warm most of the year. I'm sure I'd be just fine with a Hayden cooler, but just getting some opinions on which ones you all prefer. Should I run it before or after the radiator, since there is a trans cooler built in there? Does it really make that big of a difference?

Also I'm assuming bigger is better. Get the biggest one that can fit seems like the best idea, right?

I'm surprised you haven't already bypassed the radiator one. Isn't the 3rd gen the one that likes to grenade and give the pink milkshake of death? I've been looking into these for awhile too. B&M seems to be the go to for the 4th gen guys.

 

[AssBurns]

I'm surprised you haven't already bypassed the radiator one. Isn't the 3rd gen the one that likes to grenade and give the pink milkshake of death? I've been looking into these for awhile too. B&M seems to be the go to for the 4th gen guys.

Yeah the 3rd gens are known for the pink milkshake thing. I've been pretty lucky I guess. I actually wasn't planning to bypass the stock cooler. I was gonna put another one inline with it. Not sure if an aux cooler will be able to keep up with the bypassed stock cooler.
Anyone know?

 

[4runner DOA]

I wonder if I can just get a Tacoma 4.0 aux cooler that they use with the tow package and use that.

 

[Dukestaco]

I have a buddy that added two tranny coolers and ran hose all over the place like an old Nascar fuel like trick. He claims it increased his fluid capacity and it dropped his tranny temps by 20 degrees. When towing. If one is good two must be better and three well that's perfect

 

[Theblackflag]

Bypass the radiator entirely, your trans will thank you. In my opinion the cooler the better for the trans temps. I run a B&M 70268 with an auxiliary fan that kicks on when the outlet temp of the cooler reaches 180 degrees and shuts off at 170. I have to work really hard to get my fan to turn on and once it's on I've only ever seen the temp go above 190 once and it was when it was 95 out and I was crawling really slow riding the brakes.

If you're not planning to run a fan I would go with the B&M 70264 or maybe even something bigger. I prefer the B&Ms over the Haydens because the B&M just has a way more robust and rigid contruction.

 

[theesotericone]

Yeah the 3rd gens are known for the pink milkshake thing. I've been pretty lucky I guess. I actually wasn't planning to bypass the stock cooler. I was gonna put another one inline with it. Not sure if an aux cooler will be able to keep up with the bypassed stock cooler.
Anyone know?

How old's your rad? If it's old replace it and run inline with the aux cooler. Order doesn't matter. Mine goes aux first then rad but it's based on ease of plumbing.

For what you do you want it inline. There's plenty of people that run only the aux cooler. The ones that I've seen that are happy with that combo live in the flats or don't wheel and don't tow.

To get a real accurate number you'd have to know what the stock rad cooler's BTU rating is. I've searched and searched and have never been able to find that answer. Another annoying thing with after market coolers is B&M uses a BTU rating while Hayden uses a GVW rating. There's now way to accurately compare the two because of this. I looked for hours to try and find BTU ratings for Haydens but never could. With that said I still purchased a Hayden 678.

I also have a 7" electric fan hooked up to the cooler with a switch in the cab to activate it. It comes in super handy when your wheeling slow steep stuff. I know I told you this before but with my set-up I can run up Coyote Flats in 4Hi and never get over 180. That's a long steep pull that has boiled it's fair share of stock coolers.

 

[AssBurns]

I've figured the B&M's are better quality, but I can get Hayden's from my brother for pretty damn cheap, so I'll probably end up going that route just due to cost. I can probably pick up 3 Haydens before I match the cost of 1 B&M due to cost. If anything, I can always add another cooler if I feel the need. I'll take some measurements tonight to see how much of a cooler I can fit in there.

Is an electric fan well worth it as well? Seems like a great idea, especially in the slow stuff, but I've only had the light come on when in the faster stuff 2hi or 4hi. Might as well add that in there while I'm at it?

 

[theesotericone]

Is an electric fan well worth it as well? Seems like a great idea, especially in the slow stuff, but I've only had the light come on when in the faster stuff 2hi or 4hi. Might as well add that in there while I'm at it?

IMO, it's absolutely worth the the extra 25 bucks for the fan and switch. My cooler, fan, and switch set me back a whopping 65 bucks.

 

[Dukestaco]

IMO, it's absolutely worth the the extra 25 bucks for the fan and switch. My cooler, fan, and switch set me back a whopping 65 bucks.

Post up some shit to buy. I'll be doing this especially in the cool weather of fucking hell I mean Tucson. I have cooler for my power steering assist and a fan wired to a switch in the cab but some 4runner specific hardware would be appreciated.

 

[4Running Daily]

I have 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIGE9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

B&M 70268

One is power steering and one is transmission. Racetruck doesn't have AC, so no condensor in the way.
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

 

[AssBurns]

I have 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIGE9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

B&M 70268

One is power steering and one is transmission. Racetruck doesn't have AC, so no condensor in the way.
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

Does the PS Fluid get pretty hot on these rigs too? I've personally never had a noticeable issue, but wasn't ever actually checking the temp of the fluid. I've been in multiple situations with some Jeeps where they have completely lost power steering due to the fluid getting too hot, where I had zero issues. Probably not a bad idea to have a PS cooler too though.

I wonder if that's one of the reasons why my input seal blew out last weekend. Maybe the fluid got too hot and weakened the seal?

 

[4Running Daily]

Does the PS Fluid get pretty hot on these rigs too? I've personally never had a noticeable issue, but wasn't ever actually checking the temp of the fluid. I've been in multiple situations with some Jeeps where they have completely lost power steering due to the fluid getting too hot, where I had zero issues. Probably not a bad idea to have a PS cooler too though.

I wonder if that's one of the reasons why my input seal blew out last weekend. Maybe the fluid got too hot and weakened the seal?

Ya, when I'm beating on it all day in a hot desert, it gets pissed off. Especially crawling. A fan wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

[TRDrodeo]

Was absolutely necessary for my dogshit, garbage pile 4L30E.

Added a decent sized cooler, before the radiator input.

With a gauge of course.



I did a lot of reading and asked around, figuring out if I wanted it before, after or take the radiator out of the loop. Decided with cooler before the rad.

Went from 200-230 degree abuse tempts, causing my coolant temp to rise with it, to well under, maybe 150-190. Along with regular flushes, it has saved me from doing a manual swap. Just cruising around town it sits around 120-170. Fantastic compared to what it was before.

Putting a fan on it will be done before summertime.

****
Hayden 678 Rapid Cool Transaver Plus Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler OC-1678

• ITEM PRICE:
  US $67.21
  

 

[AssBurns]

For a fan, what do you guys use to control when the fan kicks on?

 

[AssBurns]

Probably gonna go with the Hayden 526. It's the same as the 679 but comes with a fan. Still debating a fan, but figure it wont hurt anything to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. Just gotta figure out how to control the fan. I don't really want another switch in the cab.

Hayden 679 - https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Autom...TF8&qid=1546630364&sr=1-1&keywords=hayden+679

Hayden 526 - https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Autom...TF8&qid=1546630334&sr=1-1&keywords=hayden+526

 

[TRDrodeo]

Cheapy thermo switch maybe? That's the route I'll be going.

 

[Dukestaco]

Cheapy thermo switch maybe? That's the route I'll be going.

Lol. Not cheapy. Mod budget friendly.