Tubbed Wheel Wells

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Oct 3, 2018
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#24
Just add another 2" of body lift and you'll be set. lol

Can we please stop talking about 37's and 40's. I just ordered some 35's and it's making me second guess my decision. :thumbsup:
2" is my max body lift size and made it nice for the 37's. Currently really happy with my setup and 37's. I got the 37's to fit without having to do anything else to the firewall beyond what I did for my 35's.

I am going to do a bit more trimming for the 37's in the back, but the @AssBurns links really let me dial in how the 37's fit in the rear opening. In the front, my 37's are contacting the fenders in a few spots so they are getting trimmed and some gutted SR5 flares. The 37's on beadlocks stick out a bit so the flares will hopefully keep me from any more fix-it tickets.

I have run out of ways to work in 37's in to my dialogue so 37's, 37's, 37's, 37's, 37's, 37's, 37's, 37's....
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
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#25
Most of us are running larger tires that rub like a motherfucker if we don’t do anything about it. The best solution? Cut the body away to clear the tires throughout suspension cycle.

Let’s see what you’ve done. Post the vehicle model and what size tires you are fitting, along with some pics.
97 4Runner fitting Pit Bull Rocker Radials in 35x12.50r17,

Rears are done. I think.



I'm on the front passenger side now. I'm rubbing the frame at full stuff right lock. I'm also rubbing the body mount. I managed to get every thing in the front to clear by a small amount. So my question to @AssBurns is did you cut part of the body mount? These tires are killing me right now. PS. I need a someone to weld this shit. lol

Here's the hole.

 
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
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#26
Yep. We set mine up so *theoretically* 37's will clear with the caster pushed all the way forward. We will find out soon enough. as soon as this set of tires is burned out the next ones going on the truck will be 37's assuming they clear okay while test fitting.
The front underneath the windshield cleaner fluid reservoir and underneath the battery mount have to be clearanced. Looks like it is a lot easier to clearance than the firewall though
 
Joined
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#28
Did you get your test fit 37?
They got it Friday, I'll pick it up tomorrow.

Just basing that on what others have had to do. I know I've seen 2 people chopped an inch or 2 out of their windshield fluid reservoir and plastic-welded it back together.
 

Rockdawg84

Confidence the feeling before fully understanding
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#30
When I "Tubbed" for 35's I didn't cut at all. I did just like everybody else and took out the coilover and then cycled the suspension but instead of cutting I hammered back my wheel well, and anything else in the way. I did some reading on pirate I think that the hammer method would create a stronger wheel well because of metal folding or some nonsense, really I just didn't want to cut and weld as I didn't want to strip my interior. Note to anyone that choses to do this, make sure you loosen computers and other electrical things inside the runner that should not be pounded. All that to say I pounded back beyond my body mount and only really rub on the frame just a little. All of this is with 35x12.5R17 MT/R's which by the way are bigger than the 315 MT/R's. Now there is no way I could pound any further back and so if The Pittbull Rockers are bigger I may be forced to get out the cutoff wheel and welder. I will try to remember to get some pics tomorrow to show how far back I pounded.
 
Joined
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#31
When I "Tubbed" for 35's I didn't cut at all. I did just like everybody else and took out the coilover and then cycled the suspension but instead of cutting I hammered back my wheel well, and anything else in the way. I did some reading on pirate I think that the hammer method would create a stronger wheel well because of metal folding or some nonsense, really I just didn't want to cut and weld as I didn't want to strip my interior. Note to anyone that choses to do this, make sure you loosen computers and other electrical things inside the runner that should not be pounded. All that to say I pounded back beyond my body mount and only really rub on the frame just a little. All of this is with 35x12.5R17 MT/R's which by the way are bigger than the 315 MT/R's. Now there is no way I could pound any further back and so if The Pittbull Rockers are bigger I may be forced to get out the cutoff wheel and welder. I will try to remember to get some pics tomorrow to show how far back I pounded.
My 18 year old ass hit it with a hammer and punched a hole through the firewall. The other shitty part about hammering the firewall is it makes it a bitch and a half to cut out. There's nothing wrong with it obviously, but I always recommend people go one way or the other. If they ever think they are going to have to cut, do it first.
 

Rockdawg84

Confidence the feeling before fully understanding
Joined
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#32
My 18 year old ass hit it with a hammer and punched a hole through the firewall. The other shitty part about hammering the firewall is it makes it a bitch and a half to cut out. There's nothing wrong with it obviously, but I always recommend people go one way or the other. If they ever think they are going to have to cut, do it first.
I absolutely agree. I wish I hadn't started this way because if I have to do any more it will be a total pain. So yes always clear for at least one size larger than you think you will ever run. LOL
 

KevinK

Probably Drunk
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Oct 26, 2018
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AZ and OH
#34
2014 Tundra with 0 offset beadlocked 37s on stock LCAs. Adjustable uppers let us push the lower forward and align using the heims on the uppers. Helps keep off the body mount some, but still had to chop the frame horn and part of the body mount itself including the edge of the bolt that holds it in.

Started with a little trim of the pinch weld

27EC64EB-56B7-4B16-A3F0-678C17B5F12D.jpeg

Then notched and hammered it.

1DC845FF-34C8-4284-8D4B-F9F40B84D653.jpeg

Got a bad alignment and rubbed the body mount again. Took it back after I locked the LCA in where I want it and had them adjust with the upper.

131FA898-36E7-4DCE-AC8C-6E431C816F6A.jpeg

Now there’s no rub at full stuff and lock on slow speed obstacles, but we need to tub the upper fender well for uptravel clearance on the high speed stuff. That involves relocating a lot of electrical stuff including the battery tray and fuse box and shit. I may just do the bottle jack method, but I prefer a clean and complete solution, so we’ll see.

DF2745F1-60BF-4B17-996F-D3CE1C3C207E.jpeg
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
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#35
Tonight's hour in the garage.

Drivers side fender cut. I made a template from the passenger side and used that so the two sides are pretty close to identical.




Drivers side foot well cut. I still need to get the tire on and cycle it.




Those that can't weld self-tap. Passenger side sheet metal kinda in place for now.




I also found out my factory airbox no longer fits. Look like I'll have to get a cold air intake. Not happy but it is what it is.

@AssBurns How do you not hit the factory airbox? If I'm hitting that I'm gonna be hitting the battery tray as well. This just keeps getting better and better. lol
 

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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#36
Tonight's hour in the garage.

Drivers side fender cut. I made a template from the passenger side and used that so the two sides are pretty close to identical.




Drivers side foot well cut. I still need to get the tire on and cycle it.




Those that can't weld self-tap. Passenger side sheet metal kinda in place for now.




I also found out my factory airbox no longer fits. Look like I'll have to get a cold air intake. Not happy but it is what it is.

@AssBurns How do you not hit the factory airbox? If I'm hitting that I'm gonna be hitting the battery tray as well. This just keeps getting better and better. lol
Snorkel that bitch.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#37
Tonight's hour in the garage.

Drivers side fender cut. I made a template from the passenger side and used that so the two sides are pretty close to identical.




Drivers side foot well cut. I still need to get the tire on and cycle it.




Those that can't weld self-tap. Passenger side sheet metal kinda in place for now.




I also found out my factory airbox no longer fits. Look like I'll have to get a cold air intake. Not happy but it is what it is.

@AssBurns How do you not hit the factory airbox? If I'm hitting that I'm gonna be hitting the battery tray as well. This just keeps getting better and better. lol
I must hit the factory air box, since the airbox mounts broke off haha
I hammered it back as far as I could.

But will the snorkel get in the way?
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
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#39
I must hit the factory air box, since the airbox mounts broke off haha
I hammered it back as far as I could.
Well, I feel better now. lol

If I had to beat the airbox sheet metal up that much that means I'm fucked with the battery. Can't really beat that up that much. Turning it like you did might work but I bet you still hit it. I'm going for a no rub ever sort of thing and it is starting to be a pain in my ass. lol
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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#40
Well, I feel better now. lol

If I had to beat the airbox sheet metal up that much that means I'm fucked with the battery. Can't really beat that up that much. Turning it like you did might work but I bet you still hit it. I'm going for a no rub ever sort of thing and it is starting to be a pain in my ass. lol
I moved my battery and beat it back pretty far. I only ever notice any rubbing when I bottom out hard when going fast. When in the rocks, I never rub up front (Besides frame). I rub the top of the wheel wells on hard hits (Like bump stops compressed enough for the mounting hardware to hit the strike plate and leave marks...
 

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