Tubbed Wheel Wells

AssBurns

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#87

theesotericone

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#90
Here's a few up close shots of drivers rear. Last night I snuck in a few minutes to undercoat the wells. I used 3M Pro Rubberized undercoating. It worked great. Pretty much everything is done. Now I get to move onto replacing a ton of shit in my front end. There's a lot of worn stuff that makes the rig drive like total shit. lol



 
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#91
This was the rear wheel wells that I tubbed when I did my 4-link rear end on my 3rd gen 4Runner. I set bump at about 1" below the frame rails, so I had quite a bit more up travel than stock bump location.

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Nice fab work, what size wire did you use for those welds? And dual shield flux or just mig? I’m working on my rear as well (moved my axle back a few inches on leafs [3 link solid axle front]) so I’ll need some big tubs for the rear, gonna be rockin 37s
Did you move the gas fill pipe on the drivers side at all?
Thanks bro
 

AssBurns

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#92
Nice fab work, what size wire did you use for those welds? And dual shield flux or just mig? I’m working on my rear as well (moved my axle back a few inches on leafs [3 link solid axle front]) so I’ll need some big tubs for the rear, gonna be rockin 37s
Did you move the gas fill pipe on the drivers side at all?
Thanks bro
Thanks!
I used MIG .035” wire for all of it but wish I used some thinner wire. I have since picked up some .023” wire and have been much happier with it on thinner metal.
Since I’ve done the F150 fuel tank swap, I no longer have the stock fuel filler neck. Instead I have a flexible filler neck going from the gas cap to the tank behind the axle, so my tire is just barely out of the way.

Definitely share some more info on your build! I wanna see this!
 
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#93
Thanks!
I used MIG .035” wire for all of it but wish I used some thinner wire. I have since picked up some .023” wire and have been much happier with it on thinner metal.
Since I’ve done the F150 fuel tank swap, I no longer have the stock fuel filler neck. Instead I have a flexible filler neck going from the gas cap to the tank behind the axle, so my tire is just barely out of the way.

Definitely share some more info on your build! I wanna see this!
So what was the process? Cut the outside wall and then trim the inner and bend it up to tack together?
 
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#94
Thanks!
I used MIG .035” wire for all of it but wish I used some thinner wire. I have since picked up some .023” wire and have been much happier with it on thinner metal.
Since I’ve done the F150 fuel tank swap, I no longer have the stock fuel filler neck. Instead I have a flexible filler neck going from the gas cap to the tank behind the axle, so my tire is just barely out of the way.

Definitely share some more info on your build! I wanna see this!
Will do! I should have remembered that a 4 link rear moves the gas tank. Eventually I plan to run the 4WU 4 link rear but you know that’s $, plus I want to run a diamond rear end with chromoly shafts to match the front (and fox/ king C/O)
You gotta pay to play.
But thanks for the info, I’ll get a spool of .025” and some sheet metal. Did you coat the inside of the Wells with any sort of plastic or soft rubber for the noise of rocks and shit hitting the inside? I just don’t want to be driving around in a tin can when I’m on a gravel road
 

AssBurns

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#95
So what was the process? Cut the outside wall and then trim the inner and bend it up to tack together?
Pretty much. I cut out the wheel well enough to clear the tires completely, then used some 1/4" round rod to make an edge to bend the sheet metal around. Then cut out the sheet metal till the fitment was good and formed it to the rod and tacked it all together. Once it was all tacked and looked good, I made the side plates and welded it all together. Simple to explain, but very time consuming to get done right and in one piece.
 

AssBurns

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#96
Will do! I should have remembered that a 4 link rear moves the gas tank. Eventually I plan to run the 4WU 4 link rear but you know that’s $, plus I want to run a diamond rear end with chromoly shafts to match the front (and fox/ king C/O)
You gotta pay to play.
But thanks for the info, I’ll get a spool of .025” and some sheet metal. Did you coat the inside of the Wells with any sort of plastic or soft rubber for the noise of rocks and shit hitting the inside? I just don’t want to be driving around in a tin can when I’m on a gravel road
The 4WU kit is super nice, but it's really designed for a taller ride height (Which I assume you will have since you are doing a SAS). The lower links hang below the frame a bit, while the upper link tower on the axle side sits really high. Again, great kit, but only for the right vehicle. I kept my upper link tower just about as low as I could and still had to notch the floor of the body .

I used the rustoleum rubberized undercoating. It works okay. I'd say spend the little extra and get the better brand undercoating. I sprayed about 3 coats each on the inside and outside of the wheel wells. It helps deaden the sound a little and helps seal the seams, but it's nowhere near as good as the stock stuff. I think I used about 3 or 4 cans. The stuff scrapes off sort of easy too. Might be a good idea to prime the metal as well.
 
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#97
The 4WU kit is super nice, but it's really designed for a taller ride height (Which I assume you will have since you are doing a SAS). The lower links hang below the frame a bit, while the upper link tower on the axle side sits really high. Again, great kit, but only for the right vehicle. I kept my upper link tower just about as low as I could and still had to notch the floor of the body .

I used the rustoleum rubberized undercoating. It works okay. I'd say spend the little extra and get the better brand undercoating. I sprayed about 3 coats each on the inside and outside of the wheel wells. It helps deaden the sound a little and helps seal the seams, but it's nowhere near as good as the stock stuff. I think I used about 3 or 4 cans. The stuff scrapes off sort of easy too. Might be a good idea to prime the metal as well.
Understood, when the time comes around I’ll be doing a bit more research, might end up doing custom links with ballistic heims and brackets.
What was your inspiration for changing the OE 4 link? I know you’re running 35s so I assume it has to do with manipulating the rest of the geometry to match the lift/ tire combo (and the fact that the OE 4 link system is not very burly).
 

theesotericone

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#98
Pretty much. I cut out the wheel well enough to clear the tires completely, then used some 1/4" round rod to make an edge to bend the sheet metal around. Then cut out the sheet metal till the fitment was good and formed it to the rod and tacked it all together. Once it was all tacked and looked good, I made the side plates and welded it all together. Simple to explain, but very time consuming to get done right and in one piece.
WTF? I didn't get the 1/4" rod on mine. You skipped a step on me?

JK. The welds came out damn near perfect after a little grinding. Thanks again for helping me weld that shit.


Understood, when the time comes around I’ll be doing a bit more research, might end up doing custom links with ballistic heims and brackets.
What was your inspiration for changing the OE 4 link? I know you’re running 35s so I assume it has to do with manipulating the rest of the geometry to match the lift/ tire combo (and the fact that the OE 4 link system is not very burly).
As far as the undercoating you mentioned in your other post I got a box of 3M Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating from Big A. 6 cans set me back 50 bucks. To do the front and rears with 2 coats I used 3 cans. It is pretty good stuff. It hasn't come off and bonded super well.

Concerning the factory 4 link being weak. Here's OEM drivers lower rear link. It's since been replaced with a Metal Tech unit. I did keep the factory geometry though. I like my roll steer. lol





 

AssBurns

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#99
Understood, when the time comes around I’ll be doing a bit more research, might end up doing custom links with ballistic heims and brackets.
What was your inspiration for changing the OE 4 link? I know you’re running 35s so I assume it has to do with manipulating the rest of the geometry to match the lift/ tire combo (and the fact that the OE 4 link system is not very burly).
The 4WU kit might work great for you if you rig is gonna be running bigger tires, and more lift. More lift isn't always a bad thing (Unless you go like 10" lift haha)

I had a few reasons to redo the suspension geometry. Strength wasn't really one of those reasons. I already had some custom links that were able to hold up to the abuse pretty well.
One of the big reasons was belly clearance. My goal has been a low ride height, but still have good clearance. Since I already ditched the stock tank, I was always hung up on the stock links and link mounts it felt like. So with the new links, the lower frame side mounts are only 3/8" below the frame rails, rather than a few inches. Same with the axle side. The lower axle side is a tad above the axle centerline rather than a inch or two below. Mix that with the long transition of the long links and they just slide rather than get caught on rocks.
The other big reason was geometry. Stock design has some terrible roll steer that I got really tired of. I went from like 12 degrees roll axis to -3.5 degrees. That helped high speed cornering a ton. I'd like to have about -2 degrees, but -3.5 is way better than +12*.
With the design I was also able to raise the roll axis, which helps body roll. This definitely helped, but it wasn't near as helpful as eliminating roll steer.
As for anti-squat, I actually increased my anti-squat, which I didn't want to do. I was at around 75% AS, and now it's about 95%. I'd like to be around 70% for the stuff I do.

WTF? I didn't get the 1/4" rod on mine. You skipped a step on me?

JK. The welds came out damn near perfect after a little grinding. Thanks again for helping me weld that shit.




As far as the undercoating you mentioned in your other post I got a box of 3M Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating from Big A. 6 cans set me back 50 bucks. To do the front and rears with 2 coats I used 3 cans. It is pretty good stuff. It hasn't come off and bonded super well.

Concerning the factory 4 link being weak. Here's OEM drivers lower rear link. It's since been replaced with a Metal Tech unit. I did keep the factory geometry though. I like my roll steer. lol





The rod was in the interior of the tubbed part, not on the body panel side. I did yours how I did mine :flipoff:

Glad to hear the 3M stuff is pretty good. I may eventually redo mine with that stuff then.
 

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WTF? I didn't get the 1/4" rod on mine. You skipped a step on me?

JK. The welds came out damn near perfect after a little grinding. Thanks again for helping me weld that shit.




As far as the undercoating you mentioned in your other post I got a box of 3M Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating from Big A. 6 cans set me back 50 bucks. To do the front and rears with 2 coats I used 3 cans. It is pretty good stuff. It hasn't come off and bonded super well.

Concerning the factory 4 link being weak. Here's OEM drivers lower rear link. It's since been replaced with a Metal Tech unit. I did keep the factory geometry though. I like my roll steer. lol





That reminds me, I gotta get @AssBurns actual measurements with a working caliper so we can build my new links.
 

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