Tubbed Wheel Wells

4runner DOA

Hold my beer
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Haha yeah good idea
Picked up a new caliper. I need new links. After dropping the mounts down I need length to clear and I'm running out of threads on the current links. We figured out I'm rubbing my gas skid with the flange on full stuff whereas before I was clearing. You can tell my axle isn't where it should be.
 

AssBurns

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Picked up a new caliper. I need new links. After dropping the mounts down I need length to clear and I'm running out of threads on the current links. We figured out I'm rubbing my gas skid with the flange on full stuff whereas before I was clearing. You can tell my axle isn't where it should be.
Just get the measurements and we’ll find what joints are needed to make it work.
 

4runner DOA

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Just get the measurements and we’ll find what joints are needed to make it work.
I'll do it this weekend. Don't think I'm wheeling. I've got too much to fix and not enough time. Plus the weather looks like it's gonna suck.
 
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This was the rear wheel wells that I tubbed when I did my 4-link rear end on my 3rd gen 4Runner. I set bump at about 1" below the frame rails, so I had quite a bit more up travel than stock bump location.

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I got another quick question regarding the tubs, I saw you used some round steel on the passenger side tub to give the tub some structure. What did you use for that and did you bend it by hand?
 

AssBurns

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I got another quick question regarding the tubs, I saw you used some round steel on the passenger side tub to give the tub some structure. What did you use for that and did you bend it by hand?
I used some (I think 5/32" or something like that) round rod on both sides. I bent it by hand for the most part. No fancy tools. I got the basic shape by bending it over a tire, then adjusted the bends as needed by pushing it down on my thigh. The tighter bend was done by sticking it in a hole in my workbench (a vice or clamp can work too, but the hole was more convenient) and bending it as needed. It was pretty easy to do that part. I used thin enough stuff to make it easy to work with, but thick enough to give the sheet metal more material to weld to (more tolerances if I was off a little bit).
 
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I used some (I think 5/32" or something like that) round rod on both sides. I bent it by hand for the most part. No fancy tools. I got the basic shape by bending it over a tire, then adjusted the bends as needed by pushing it down on my thigh. The tighter bend was done by sticking it in a hole in my workbench (a vice or clamp can work too, but the hole was more convenient) and bending it as needed. It was pretty easy to do that part. I used thin enough stuff to make it easy to work with, but thick enough to give the sheet metal more material to weld to (more tolerances if I was off a little bit).
Right well it looks good. I decided to go with more of a trapezoidal shape for the tubs so I can have a flat top to mount stuff to (batterie box, air compressor, storage, etc.)

As I was studying your pictures a bit more I noticed that you had trimmed the outside of the body, I was hoping to go around that but with a 12.5” wide tire I’m not sure if that’ll work out. How far or how much did you trim from the outer lip of the fender upwards? And do you have any pictures of that?

Thanks man, I appreciate all your information.
 

Theblackflag

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Finished up my tub this weekend.

Specs on the truck:
1 inch body lift
315/75/16 Cooper STT Pros
SPC Control arms set to E
16x8 4" backspacing/-12mm offset SCS Ray 10s
No Spacers

I went a lot further than most but I did this to guarantee I'll never have rubbing issues which meant notching the frame and cutting a lot of firewall. I'm sure someone will say "why not just move your control arms to F or G. I left them on E for a reason, that reason being that it allowed me to not have to touch the front of the wheel well at all. I have roughly an inch of clearance up front which is good because I don't have room to move the battery or air box. I don't have many pics because I've been really burnt out on posting in build threads which was the main reason I took them anyway.
IMAG1143
by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG1144
by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG1145
by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
IMAG1148
by Phoenix Black, on Flickr
 

Theblackflag

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Phoenix, can you tuck the rears with the -12 ET and 315s?
I haven't yet been able to really flex out the rear to see. Right now I'm having clearance issues between the shock body and tire in the rear. Ill be addressing that this weekend and then I can get some pictures of how it cycles for you. Based off how everything fit before with the 33s, with some careful tuning of the panhard length the 35s should just barely be able to tuck into the fender well. I think at most Ill need to shave the inner sheet metal lip out so it is flush with the flare. From what I have gathered and seen in person the 8-inch rim with -12mm offset is pretty optimal for getting a balance of fitting the tire in the fender wells and clearing everything else.
 

theesotericone

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Supposed to be 34.75. I’ll verify next time I’m at the shop

Actually, Steve would know..
Nice. That's big enough. Once your done let me know how they drive on the highway. My PB Rockers are total and complete shit at highway speed.

Also, next time your in the shop fully stuff the driver side and droop the passenger side rear. Spin the drivers tire. See if you rub the filler neck cover. That's the only spot I'm rubbing. It's rubber on plastic so I'm not to worried about it. lol
 

eimkeith

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Nice. That's big enough. Once your done let me know how they drive on the highway. My PB Rockers are total and complete shit at highway speed.

Also, next time your in the shop fully stuff the driver side and droop the passenger side rear. Spin the drivers tire. See if you rub the filler neck cover. That's the only spot I'm rubbing. It's rubber on plastic so I'm not to worried about it. lol
I haven’t trimmed for the rear yet - gotta cut down that pinch weld in the rear a bit. And have to put the filler cover back in. :)

I’m working on 4-linking the rear, so I might actually clear without trimming, but I’ll trim & spin it anyway for the data.

This is driver stuffed, passenger drooped with shocks removed, btw:

A4826957-C662-4685-8F18-E331C9C3E690.jpeg FEBA982A-1E2A-4662-8DB4-40C0666C47BA.jpeg
 

Theblackflag

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My PB Rockers are total and complete shit at highway speed.
This doesn't surprise me at all haha. Everyone I know with the pitbulls hates them. IMO they're one of the most overrated tires out there, they look great but really just don't perform well unless they're on a 10k lb truck.

Not sure how they compare price wise to the milestars but my coppers measure right at 34.75 with the truck on them at 30psi and have pretty great highway manners. They track super straight and really aren't very loud being an MT. They just have a slight hum. I haven't had them on rocks yet but everyone I know with them has loved them, they kick ass in the deep snow too.
 

theesotericone

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This doesn't surprise me at all haha. Everyone I know with the pitbulls hates them. IMO they're one of the most overrated tires out there, they look great but really just don't perform well unless they're on a 10k lb truck.
It's a love/hate thing. When on the highway I don't really like them at all. When off road they outperform anything else I've run in every type of terrain. They clear mud and snow well enough to deposit it on my roof and hood. They grip rock very well. They air down super low and stay firmly in contact. If they where just average for off road they would have been sold a long time ago. A lot of my wheeling is local to me so I just suck it up when I have to go a few hours south to wheel with the SoCal boys.
 

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