I don't think 40's would be that much worse......
Just add another 2" of body lift and you'll be set. lol
Can we please stop talking about 37's and 40's. I just ordered some 35's and it's making me second guess my decision.
Just add another 2" of body lift and you'll be set. lol
Can we please stop talking about 37's and 40's. I just ordered some 35's and it's making me second guess my decision.
Most of us are running larger tires that rub like a motherfucker if we don’t do anything about it. The best solution? Cut the body away to clear the tires throughout suspension cycle.
Let’s see what you’ve done. Post the vehicle model and what size tires you are fitting, along with some pics.
The front underneath the windshield cleaner fluid reservoir and underneath the battery mount have to be clearanced. Looks like it is a lot easier to clearance than the firewall thoughYep. We set mine up so *theoretically* 37's will clear with the caster pushed all the way forward. We will find out soon enough. as soon as this set of tires is burned out the next ones going on the truck will be 37's assuming they clear okay while test fitting.
The front underneath the windshield cleaner fluid reservoir and underneath the battery mount have to be clearanced. Looks like it is a lot easier to clearance than the firewall though
They got it Friday, I'll pick it up tomorrow.Did you get your test fit 37?
I know I've seen 2 people chopped an inch or 2 out of their windshield fluid reservoir and plastic-welded it back together.
My 18 year old ass hit it with a hammer and punched a hole through the firewall. The other shitty part about hammering the firewall is it makes it a bitch and a half to cut out. There's nothing wrong with it obviously, but I always recommend people go one way or the other. If they ever think they are going to have to cut, do it first.When I "Tubbed" for 35's I didn't cut at all. I did just like everybody else and took out the coilover and then cycled the suspension but instead of cutting I hammered back my wheel well, and anything else in the way. I did some reading on pirate I think that the hammer method would create a stronger wheel well because of metal folding or some nonsense, really I just didn't want to cut and weld as I didn't want to strip my interior. Note to anyone that choses to do this, make sure you loosen computers and other electrical things inside the runner that should not be pounded. All that to say I pounded back beyond my body mount and only really rub on the frame just a little. All of this is with 35x12.5R17 MT/R's which by the way are bigger than the 315 MT/R's. Now there is no way I could pound any further back and so if The Pittbull Rockers are bigger I may be forced to get out the cutoff wheel and welder. I will try to remember to get some pics tomorrow to show how far back I pounded.
My 18 year old ass hit it with a hammer and punched a hole through the firewall. The other shitty part about hammering the firewall is it makes it a bitch and a half to cut out. There's nothing wrong with it obviously, but I always recommend people go one way or the other. If they ever think they are going to have to cut, do it first.
Tonight's hour in the garage.
Drivers side fender cut. I made a template from the passenger side and used that so the two sides are pretty close to identical.
Drivers side foot well cut. I still need to get the tire on and cycle it.
Those that can't weld self-tap. Passenger side sheet metal kinda in place for now.
I also found out my factory airbox no longer fits. Look like I'll have to get a cold air intake. Not happy but it is what it is.
@AssBurns How do you not hit the factory airbox? If I'm hitting that I'm gonna be hitting the battery tray as well. This just keeps getting better and better. lol
I must hit the factory air box, since the airbox mounts broke off hahaTonight's hour in the garage.
Drivers side fender cut. I made a template from the passenger side and used that so the two sides are pretty close to identical.
Drivers side foot well cut. I still need to get the tire on and cycle it.
Those that can't weld self-tap. Passenger side sheet metal kinda in place for now.
I also found out my factory airbox no longer fits. Look like I'll have to get a cold air intake. Not happy but it is what it is.
@AssBurns How do you not hit the factory airbox? If I'm hitting that I'm gonna be hitting the battery tray as well. This just keeps getting better and better. lol
But will the snorkel get in the way?Snorkel that bitch.
Snorkel that bitch.
I must hit the factory air box, since the airbox mounts broke off haha
I hammered it back as far as I could.
I moved my battery and beat it back pretty far. I only ever notice any rubbing when I bottom out hard when going fast. When in the rocks, I never rub up front (Besides frame). I rub the top of the wheel wells on hard hits (Like bump stops compressed enough for the mounting hardware to hit the strike plate and leave marks...Well, I feel better now. lol
If I had to beat the airbox sheet metal up that much that means I'm fucked with the battery. Can't really beat that up that much. Turning it like you did might work but I bet you still hit it. I'm going for a no rub ever sort of thing and it is starting to be a pain in my ass. lol