Haha yeah good ideaThat reminds me, I gotta get @AssBurns actual measurements with a working caliper so we can build my new links.
Haha yeah good ideaThat reminds me, I gotta get @AssBurns actual measurements with a working caliper so we can build my new links.
Haha yeah good idea
Just get the measurements and we’ll find what joints are needed to make it work.Picked up a new caliper. I need new links. After dropping the mounts down I need length to clear and I'm running out of threads on the current links. We figured out I'm rubbing my gas skid with the flange on full stuff whereas before I was clearing. You can tell my axle isn't where it should be.
Just get the measurements and we’ll find what joints are needed to make it work.
I got another quick question regarding the tubs, I saw you used some round steel on the passenger side tub to give the tub some structure. What did you use for that and did you bend it by hand?This was the rear wheel wells that I tubbed when I did my 4-link rear end on my 3rd gen 4Runner. I set bump at about 1" below the frame rails, so I had quite a bit more up travel than stock bump location.
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I used some (I think 5/32" or something like that) round rod on both sides. I bent it by hand for the most part. No fancy tools. I got the basic shape by bending it over a tire, then adjusted the bends as needed by pushing it down on my thigh. The tighter bend was done by sticking it in a hole in my workbench (a vice or clamp can work too, but the hole was more convenient) and bending it as needed. It was pretty easy to do that part. I used thin enough stuff to make it easy to work with, but thick enough to give the sheet metal more material to weld to (more tolerances if I was off a little bit).I got another quick question regarding the tubs, I saw you used some round steel on the passenger side tub to give the tub some structure. What did you use for that and did you bend it by hand?
Right well it looks good. I decided to go with more of a trapezoidal shape for the tubs so I can have a flat top to mount stuff to (batterie box, air compressor, storage, etc.)I used some (I think 5/32" or something like that) round rod on both sides. I bent it by hand for the most part. No fancy tools. I got the basic shape by bending it over a tire, then adjusted the bends as needed by pushing it down on my thigh. The tighter bend was done by sticking it in a hole in my workbench (a vice or clamp can work too, but the hole was more convenient) and bending it as needed. It was pretty easy to do that part. I used thin enough stuff to make it easy to work with, but thick enough to give the sheet metal more material to weld to (more tolerances if I was off a little bit).
Specs on the truck:
1 inch body lift
315/75/16 Cooper STT Pros
16x8 4" backspacing/-12mm offset SCS Ray 10s
No Spacers
Phoenix, can you tuck the rears with the -12 ET and 315s?
Got a 315 in; tuning up the firewall cut:
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Supposed to be 34.75. I’ll verify next time I’m at the shopWhat's the mounted size of the Patagonia M/T?
Supposed to be 34.75. I’ll verify next time I’m at the shop
Actually, Steve would know..
Nice. That's big enough. Once your done let me know how they drive on the highway. My PB Rockers are total and complete shit at highway speed.
Also, next time your in the shop fully stuff the driver side and droop the passenger side rear. Spin the drivers tire. See if you rub the filler neck cover. That's the only spot I'm rubbing. It's rubber on plastic so I'm not to worried about it. lol
My PB Rockers are total and complete shit at highway speed.
This doesn't surprise me at all haha. Everyone I know with the pitbulls hates them. IMO they're one of the most overrated tires out there, they look great but really just don't perform well unless they're on a 10k lb truck.