Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Over the weekend we did some really boring stuff and got started on some really cool stuff!

The boring stuff was ripping the old axle out and cutting all the old brackets off the frame. We also rebuilt our front cross-member that was destroyed, tied it into the cross-member the a-arms mount to as well as got the Addicted Offroad bumper cross-member to our frame as well as the engine cage landing on the bumper.

On to the fun stuff, we designed, cut, and welded our 4 link brackets for the new 4 link. I have lots more pictures coming as well.

50826648597_dac508e318_z.jpg

50826648427_4530ae585a_z.jpg

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Here is a sneak peak.
50826552061_6267664f42_z.jpg
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
We started to land links last night. We got our upper and lower mounts tacked to the housing, as well as made our lower links. We also got one of our lower mounts tacked on. It was late and a jack stand was blocking the other side so that will go on tomorrow, we are also going to cut and bend our upper links.

For the links we are using Summit Machine Billet Flex Joints, these things are beefy. One side has a threaded bung so we have adjustability, the other end will be fixed and is welded to the link. As far as the link itself it is made of 2" 1/4" wall DOM and the uppers will be 1.75".120 Wall DOM. This should provide us with plenty of strength and longevity with these. The lowers are BEEFY. The upper will also be very beefy when compared to the factory links.

50828522096_5e8a15c1ac_z.jpg

50828521926_1d29fe3a2f_z.jpg

50828611112_6b1da7e73f_z.jpg


And boy is it wide!!!

50828610872_d3ec0b31e6_z.jpg

50828610802_052a661e76_z.jpg

50827772408_b12dc32c52_z.jpg


As far as the housing goes, we are running a Trail Gear 9" Housing. This is their Full Float Roller Kit so it comes with nearly everything you need to have a roller housing. The housing, the weld in bearing pockets, Dana 60 Hubs, brake calipers with mounts, rotor, and lugs. We then had to buy the Dana 60 hub drive flange kit, a Truss, and the axle shafts which are equal length 35 Spline Chromoly shafts.

We have the 3rd member being built right now along with the front and we will update you on that shortly.
 

Hank

Sarcastic asshole
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
669
Location
SF Valley CA / Park City UT
We started to land links last night. We got our upper and lower mounts tacked to the housing, as well as made our lower links. We also got one of our lower mounts tacked on. It was late and a jack stand was blocking the other side so that will go on tomorrow, we are also going to cut and bend our upper links.

For the links we are using Summit Machine Billet Flex Joints, these things are beefy. One side has a threaded bung so we have adjustability, the other end will be fixed and is welded to the link. As far as the link itself it is made of 2" 1/4" wall DOM and the uppers will be 1.75".120 Wall DOM. This should provide us with plenty of strength and longevity with these. The lowers are BEEFY. The upper will also be very beefy when compared to the factory links.

50828522096_5e8a15c1ac_z.jpg

50828521926_1d29fe3a2f_z.jpg

50828611112_6b1da7e73f_z.jpg


And boy is it wide!!!

50828610872_d3ec0b31e6_z.jpg

50828610802_052a661e76_z.jpg

50827772408_b12dc32c52_z.jpg


As far as the housing goes, we are running a Trail Gear 9" Housing. This is their Full Float Roller Kit so it comes with nearly everything you need to have a roller housing. The housing, the weld in bearing pockets, Dana 60 Hubs, brake calipers with mounts, rotor, and lugs. We then had to buy the Dana 60 hub drive flange kit, a Truss, and the axle shafts which are equal length 35 Spline Chromoly shafts.

We have the 3rd member being built right now along with the front and we will update you on that shortly.


I assume you got all the geometry worked out? Hows the numbers looking?

and those joints look gorgous.
 

PNW Pineapple

Slim-Whitey Official Fact Checker
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
3,875
Location
PNW
Over the weekend we did some really boring stuff and got started on some really cool stuff!

The boring stuff was ripping the old axle out and cutting all the old brackets off the frame. We also rebuilt our front cross-member that was destroyed, tied it into the cross-member the a-arms mount to as well as got the Addicted Offroad bumper cross-member to our frame as well as the engine cage landing on the bumper.

On to the fun stuff, we designed, cut, and welded our 4 link brackets for the new 4 link. I have lots more pictures coming as well.

50826648597_dac508e318_z.jpg

50826648427_4530ae585a_z.jpg

50825804838_fafda4c150_z.jpg

50826648142_4d49bee3a5_z.jpg

50826648047_65f89f4eea_z.jpg


Here is a sneak peak.
50826552061_6267664f42_z.jpg
Those welds are so clean
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Looking good! Jealous of that full floater housing you got!

Question though, why not push the links up more for better ground clearance? Should have plenty of room to do so and maintain proper geometry. Also if you can, add some more triangulation to the lowers. It'll help combat the roll steer and dial in your roll axis angle. Some stand offs from the inside of the frame rails should allow you to triangulate more and raise the links for better clearance.
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
I assume you got all the geometry worked out? Hows the numbers looking?

and those joints look gorgous.
The numbers are actually pretty good.

Those welds are so clean
Thanks! Starting to figure out the glue gun a bit.

Looking good! Jealous of that full floater housing you got!

Question though, why not push the links up more for better ground clearance? Should have plenty of room to do so and maintain proper geometry. Also if you can, add some more triangulation to the lowers. It'll help combat the roll steer and dial in your roll axis angle. Some stand offs from the inside of the frame rails should allow you to triangulate more and raise the links for better clearance.

The housing is going to prove to be nice, trying to set this up once and hopefully not worry about it ever again.

We tried to get those sucked up a bit but our numbers were looking garbage and we don't end up with enough room for our uppers so we landed on this to keep things in check. Definitely would have been nice to keep the belly as flat as possible. On that note, once the skids are installed this will by no means be the lowest point on the frame so that's also a factor. They sit about even with the center cross members. As far as lower triangulation, they do actually have about 5-7 degrees which are going to prove helpful for sure.

Here are the numbers we ended up on/very close to.
50831202608_bec4fc41fe_z.jpg


Also, something from Locked Offroad showed up this morning for the front...
50831202143_ae51cb822a_z.jpg
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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The numbers are actually pretty good.


Thanks! Starting to figure out the glue gun a bit.



The housing is going to prove to be nice, trying to set this up once and hopefully not worry about it ever again.

We tried to get those sucked up a bit but our numbers were looking garbage and we don't end up with enough room for our uppers so we landed on this to keep things in check. Definitely would have been nice to keep the belly as flat as possible. On that note, once the skids are installed this will by no means be the lowest point on the frame so that's also a factor. They sit about even with the center cross members. As far as lower triangulation, they do actually have about 5-7 degrees which are going to prove helpful for sure.

Here are the numbers we ended up on/very close to.
50831202608_bec4fc41fe_z.jpg


Also, something from Locked Offroad showed up this morning for the front...
50831202143_ae51cb822a_z.jpg
Yeah those numbers do look pretty good. Right where they need to be. However quick question on the COG height you are using. Where did you get that number for the COG height? That numbers seems awfully low for a caged SUV. Unless you have scales to measure accurately, a common measurement is the top bolt of the bellhousing. And for a caged SUV, I'd probably add another inch or two to that number. If the COG height you are currently using it too low, then your Anti-Squat numbers will be way off and much higher potentially leading to a really stiff rear end. That seems to be a common place people don't accurately measure. Most of us just take a calculated guess, but if you have scales you can get accurate numbers.
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Yeah those numbers do look pretty good. Right where they need to be. However quick question on the COG height you are using. Where did you get that number for the COG height? That numbers seems awfully low for a caged SUV. Unless you have scales to measure accurately, a common measurement is the top bolt of the bellhousing. And for a caged SUV, I'd probably add another inch or two to that number. If the COG height you are currently using it too low, then your Anti-Squat numbers will be way off and much higher potentially leading to a really stiff rear end. That seems to be a common place people don't accurately measure. Most of us just take a calculated guess, but if you have scales you can get accurate numbers.

We definitely guessed a good bit. I'm gonna try that and see where it lands us.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Here's at the "Current Estimated Ride Height" Bell housing plus 1".
View attachment 32465
Not too significant of a change, which is good. I guess I had it backwards in the direction it would go on the anti-squat. I knew better but I was thinking about it backwards. 50% is pretty low on the anti-squat so if you can get it back to the numbers you had before with the more accurate COG, it would be more ideal.
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Not too significant of a change, which is good. I guess I had it backwards in the direction it would go on the anti-squat. I knew better but I was thinking about it backwards. 50% is pretty low on the anti-squat so if you can get it back to the numbers you had before with the more accurate COG, it would be more ideal.
We are going to get some updated measurements on where everything landed this evening and see what it looks like, may change a couple of things after reviewing it. If not we are going to glue it in!
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
The team made some amazing progress over the weekend.

First, we got the rear axle and 4link finalized and installed. We started with coil perches, shock mounts, and hydro strike pads.

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We are running bent upper links to clear the factory cross-member as we are not allowed to cut it out per the class rules.
Untitled by alex fleming, on Flickr

We mocked up coil placement after cutting and planting the truss.
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Then started the shock placement.
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Then, hydro bump pads.
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Then got the axle full welded and prepped to paint.
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Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
The 200 series rack is getting ready to go in as well. We started by removing the factory bushing to have our offset spacers machined. The hole spacing needs to change about 1/2" to fit the 4runner frame.

50849980386_f6bea25865_z.jpg

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So, that is off having the parts made, should have them back sometime today actually.
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Stocked up on a bunch of fluids for the truck.
50849252918_0ce3f82593_z.jpg


Got the roof rack ready to rock as well. We gotta do some marketing so threw some Maxtrax on the rack (which may come in handy) and a rotopax for show.
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Replaced our final original bump stop mount.
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Painted these.
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Installed our Yukon Air Compressor
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And here is where she sits. Front end comes Wednesday... hopefully.
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There is a lot of other small things we have done that I don't have pictures off such as more cage reinforcements, wiring, took all the decals off to prep for a wrap, and a whole lot more.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Looks great! That fully float axle has me drooling!

Are you guys cutting everything on a plasma table or do I remember correctly that you guys have a waterjet now?
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
25
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Looks great! That fully float axle has me drooling!

Are you guys cutting everything on a plasma table or do I remember correctly that you guys have a waterjet now?
Everything is cut on our waterjet. Including our wheels to fit those new hubs because black rhino chokes down for their centercap. Worked amazing though, also retains the factory Toyota hub centric ring in the wheel as it is a bit wider. Spoiled by the work we do during the week haha!
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Everything is cut on our waterjet. Including our wheels to fit those new hubs because black rhino chokes down for their centercap. Worked amazing though, also retains the factory Toyota hub centric ring in the wheel as it is a bit wider. Spoiled by the work we do during the week haha!
That's so awesome!
 

Alex Fleming

Owner at Sherpa Equipment Co.
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
159
Age
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Location
Fort Collins, CO
Another very important piece to the 200 Series Land Cruiser rack swap.

Black Peak Engineering whipped up these new bushing replacements "Solid Spacers" for our steering rack to bolt into the factory location on the 4runner.
These are made to the exact spec of the factory bushings but offset to line up with the 4runner frame, they are press fit and made out of 7075 Aluminum. Thank you, CNC Mills.

50853176111_f9e26a0e65_z.jpg


50852454743_b81f58d9e3_z.jpg
 

4runner DOA

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Another very important piece to the 200 Series Land Cruiser rack swap.

Black Peak Engineering whipped up these new bushing replacements "Solid Spacers" for our steering rack to bolt into the factory location on the 4runner.
These are made to the exact spec of the factory bushings but offset to line up with the 4runner frame, they are press fit and made out of 7075 Aluminum. Thank you, CNC Mills.

50853176111_f9e26a0e65_z.jpg


50852454743_b81f58d9e3_z.jpg

I like. Curious to see how the spaces and rack hold up to the abuse. That's a marketable piece right there.
 
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