What are you working on? (Besides your offroad vehicle)

[Dukestaco]

I know that list well. The most amazing thing about it is it's self-populating. I knock off 8 out of 10 things and there's still ten fucking things on that list. Literally never fucking ending. lol

#honeydogrndhgdaylst

 

[AssBurns]

The truck needs some work done to get it running right but I’m going on a little road trip and need to have my music playing instead of the shitty radio. So I bought two cheap double din head units. One for the Lexus and another for the tundra. I’ll be installing these Saturday. I need to buy a soldering gun still. Any recommendations?

 

[4runner DOA]

The truck needs some work done to get it running right but I’m going on a little road trip and need to have my music playing instead of the shitty radio. So I bought two cheap double din head units. One for the Lexus and another for the tundra. I’ll be installing these Saturday. I need to buy a soldering gun still. Any recommendations?


View attachment 4906

Soldering gun? Get those heat shrink/solder butt connectors. They're fucking awesome.

 

[AssBurns]

Soldering gun? Get those heat shrink/solder butt connectors. They're fucking awesome.

Are they that good? I always see the ads for them on IG but they seem kinda gimmicky

 

[4runner DOA]

Are they that good? I always see the ads for them on IG but they seem kinda gimmicky

The ones I've used have held together. Wasted a few trying to heat them with a torch before I picked up a heat gun.

 

[97t4r81]

Are they that good? I always see the ads for them on IG but they seem kinda gimmicky

They work great for wires that aren’t critical and are inside. Perfect for radios and lights, but I wouldn’t trust them for engine systems or in areas where the wires move a lot( heavy vibration). No need to solder radios unless it’s outdoors.

 

[PizzaRolls]

Well I guess it's still an offroad vehicle, but I'm getting my mountain bikes ready for the season. New tires on 2 of 3, new shift cable for the DH bike, redo all my shock air charges, the list goes on.

 

[Hank]

The truck needs some work done to get it running right but I’m going on a little road trip and need to have my music playing instead of the shitty radio. So I bought two cheap double din head units. One for the Lexus and another for the tundra. I’ll be installing these Saturday. I need to buy a soldering gun still. Any recommendations?


View attachment 4906

I've only soldered radios if I'm running new speaker wire, amps and high quality speakers. Other than than, crimp those bitches.

 

[AssBurns]

I've only soldered radios if I'm running new speaker wire, amps and high quality speakers. Other than than, crimp those bitches.

I've always tried to solder things that I want to keep connected in a permanent or semi-permanent fashion. That's what I did on my 4runner's radio and it was pretty easy with the small wires. I just don't have my own personal soldering iron. I usually use my dads but I hate having to borrow his shit when I want to work on stuff at my house. I'll probably still solder it unless i'm feeling lazy and want to just crimp shit.

 

[Hank]

I've always tried to solder things that I want to keep connected in a permanent or semi-permanent fashion. That's what I did on my 4runner's radio and it was pretty easy with the small wires. I just don't have my own personal soldering iron. I usually use my dads but I hate having to borrow his shit when I want to work on stuff at my house. I'll probably still solder it unless i'm feeling lazy and want to just crimp shit.

yeah, or get your 4runner running again. lol

 

[AssBurns]

yeah, or get your 4runner running again. lol

Well I'm going to try to get it working. I need to pull the injectors again since my impatient ass forgot to lube the o-rings and now a couple injectors are leaking. I'll pull it apart this weekend when I get some time. It does run better but still getting a misfire. Gonna replace the wires again to see if that helps.

 

[Rockdawg84]

I'm currently swapping a set of F450 superduty rear springs into my 96 1 ton crew cab. should be a nice upgrade from the logging truck springs that came from the factory. I have already put the matching front springs in the front with a shackle reversal kit.

 

[AssBurns]

Alright, so last weekend I started working on installing a cheap stereo in my Lexus ES330. I bought the wire harness with the amp controller box thing. I soldered it all together and plugged it in. It turned on and connected fine but it doesn’t produce any sound. There was an extra Blue/white striped wire that the instructions said to use but there aren’t any other matching blue/white stripe wires to connect it to. Supposedly that wire is the amp power turn on wire or something like that. I’m wondering if it’s due to the shitty stereo I purchased or if it’s soemthing else. Any tips to point me in the right direction?

 

[theesotericone]

Never solder until you test the system. Is there a factory amp in the vehicle?

 

[AssBurns]

Never solder until you test the system. Is there a factory amp in the vehicle?

Yeah well I thought I was gonna be solid, but i guess not.
Yeah there is a factory amp, and this harness I bought was supposed to work along with it.

 

[theesotericone]

Yeah well I thought I was gonna be solid, but i guess not.
Yeah there is a factory amp, and this harness I bought was supposed to work along with it.

Links to what you used?

Amps use that wire that's not connected. It's called a remote sense wire. Amps have their own power supply from the battery. That wire sends a 12v signal to the amp telling it to open it's main power supply. It's basically acting as a relay. Without that wire connected the amp never received it's signal to turn on. Your speakers are hooked up to the amp. That's why your head unit is on and you have no sound.

 

[AssBurns]

Links to what you used?

Amps use that wire that's not connected. It's called a remote sense wire. Amps have their own power supply from the battery. That wire sends a 12v signal to the amp telling it to open it's main power supply. It's basically acting as a relay. Without that wire connected the amp never received it's signal to turn on. Your speakers are hooked up to the amp. That's why your head unit is on and you have no sound.

So the car is a 2004 Lexus ES330. It's got the multi-disc player stock.

I bought this cheap stereo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPJX7KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

And this harness.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00133RCCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm just a bit confused as too where I need to connect the blue/white striped amp power switch wire. That explanation helped me usnderstand the function, but where should I connect the wire to? Power supply?

 

[WileECoyote]

I don't quite have a "specific direction", but brainstorming on things to make using microControllers along with writing the code.

Anyways, the pictures are from a work project that I've been doing at... work. It is using 2x analog to digital converter inputs to sense voltage and current (i.e. DC). For now, it is only able to sense 'low voltage/current", but it is working and I just need to "scale the readings" accordingly.

I posted something similar about a week ago, but this is as recent as yesterday in getting a current sensing circuit along with code.

Below is an example of my "test circuit and working code/microController":


1V in drawing approx 100mA.


Measuring approx 0.5V out at approx 100mA.


My voltage/current sensing on the output.


Anyways, I'm thinking of making things for my truck, but nothing in particular at the moment. One idea is to make a temp sensor of my own... HAHAHA... just to say that "I" made it. HAHAHAHA

Anyways...

 

[AssBurns]

Links to what you used?

Amps use that wire that's not connected. It's called a remote sense wire. Amps have their own power supply from the battery. That wire sends a 12v signal to the amp telling it to open it's main power supply. It's basically acting as a relay. Without that wire connected the amp never received it's signal to turn on. Your speakers are hooked up to the amp. That's why your head unit is on and you have no sound.

So the car is a 2004 Lexus ES330. It's got the multi-disc player stock.

I bought this cheap stereo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPJX7KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

And this harness.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00133RCCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm just a bit confused as too where I need to connect the blue/white striped amp power switch wire. That explanation helped me usnderstand the function, but where should I connect the wire to? Power supply?

So what do I do here @theesotericone? Just connect that remote switch wire to 12v power?

 

[theesotericone]

So what do I do here @theesotericone? Just connect that remote switch wire to 12v power?

You need to see if the factory amp has a small sense wire coming from it. Then connect that wire to the sense wire on the harness. If it doesn't it's kicked on by the canbus and that should happen if it's the correct harness.

Reading through the reviews on Big A for the harness I found this. I'd call Metra directly. They're a pretty solid company and would have more info then me about the JBL amp turn-on function:

I wanted to continue using the Lexus factory speakers, amp and subwoofer in my wife's 2002 Lexus ES300, but needed to change the head unit to gain iPod, USB, BlueTooth and HD Radio capability. So I purchased a Metra TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness which includes a small box containing active circuitry to handle the stock amplifier turn-on. This plugs right into the Lexus harness to replace the factory Premium Sound System head unit which is made by Pioneer, so don't be concerned that the harness is listed for JBL since this same harness also works with Toyota models that use JBL systems. I purchased a single DIN Pioneer DEH-P9400BH CD Receiver (excellent) and the Metra ES 300/330 02-06 Single DIN Dash Kit 99-8158G for a finished, factory-look after-market upgrade.

After installation, the sound came from the right speakers only. A call to Metra tech support identified the problem. One of the pins in the connector had been pushed back inside the housing. That was easy to fix, and the problem was solved. This interface allowed me to use the factory harness without cutting any wires, and the powered interface turns the car's amplifier on and off without an audible pop or thump. Works perfectly.