Where are our Long Travel guys at?

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I'm not nearly as offended by the +2 kit as Tetten haha but he also wheels his truck way harder than mine and has his reasons but he'd have to be doing a lot more work to clear those 37's without it. I've really enjoyed the kit but have also told many friends not to bother with it because they won't see any benefits over a good stock length LCA. The +2 definitely helps clear bigger tires, has a bit more wheel travel and does help a little with stability but in the end, it's your money and you can do whatever the hell you want with it. My truck is one of those ones that has to be a swiss army knife which means it's not great at any one thing, it can go fast out in the desert, it can wheel and it can camp so the +2 has been good for me but at the same time it probably wasn't needed. Need and want are two very different things and I have zero shame saying I wanted it and at the same time I feel I've benefited from it :ontopic:
 

4runner DOA

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I'm not nearly as offended by the +2 kit as Tetten haha but he also wheels his truck way harder than mine and has his reasons but he'd have to be doing a lot more work to clear those 37's without it. I've really enjoyed the kit but have also told many friends not to bother with it because they won't see any benefits over a good stock length LCA. The +2 definitely helps clear bigger tires, has a bit more wheel travel and does help a little with stability but in the end, it's your money and you can do whatever the hell you want with it. My truck is one of those ones that has to be a swiss army knife which means it's not great at any one thing, it can go fast out in the desert, it can wheel and it can camp so the +2 has been good for me but at the same time it probably wasn't needed. Need and want are two very different things and I have zero shame saying I wanted it and at the same time I feel I've benefited from it :ontopic:

Between you and @Tetten I think I'm just going to go with a stock length LCA with secondary mount and eventually add secondaries to the front. The 4runner is kind of the same "swiss army knife" in that it can do a lot of things (moreso than myself as the driver) but it'll never be one specific thing. I think the secondaries will help the go fast game, but I'm going to get the new shocks valved correctly for my weight first before I make that decision.
 
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Between you and @Tetten I think I'm just going to go with a stock length LCA with secondary mount and eventually add secondaries to the front. The 4runner is kind of the same "swiss army knife" in that it can do a lot of things (moreso than myself as the driver) but it'll never be one specific thing. I think the secondaries will help the go fast game, but I'm going to get the new shocks valved correctly for my weight first before I make that decision.

That's probably a good call, there's something to be said about being able to get CV axles more readily than having to use a special +2 axle shaft as well.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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That's probably a good call, there's something to be said about being able to get CV axles more readily than having to use a special +2 axle shaft as well.
That right here is why LT kits for you're guys' trucks is more of a PITA. I really like the idea of using 1st gen tundra stock axles from the parts store if needed. If I were to do LT with a different width than 3.5" over, I'd just get RCV's to save the trouble of special CV's.
 
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That right here is why LT kits for you're guys' trucks is more of a PITA. I really like the idea of using 1st gen tundra stock axles from the parts store if needed. If I were to do LT with a different width than 3.5" over, I'd just get RCV's to save the trouble of special CV's.

I've been thinking about getting RCV's but that's a tough pill to swallow and do wonder about the R&P breaking with such a strong axle. We all know about breaking points and what not and I kind of like having the CV as mine before shredding the gears.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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I've been thinking about getting RCV's but that's a tough pill to swallow and do wonder about the R&P breaking with such a strong axle. We all know about breaking points and what not and I kind of like having the CV as mine before shredding the gears.
We've all talked about this before too. I think the front diffs aren't as weak as people think they are. I've personally never seen a R&P failure on a 7.5" or 8" front diff. I've seen spider gears get shredded (@Theblackflag), but with ARB up front, that isn't much of an issue. I'd be more worried about the ADD stub shaft than the R&P.
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
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We've all talked about this before too. I think the front diffs aren't as weak as people think they are. I've personally never seen a R&P failure on a 7.5" or 8" front diff. I've seen spider gears get shredded (@Theblackflag), but with ARB up front, that isn't much of an issue. I'd be more worried about the ADD stub shaft than the R&P.

We'll find out soon enough. So far it hasn't broken. I think it will continue to be fine. I plan on wheeling this season. Then late fall I'm going to pull the front diff and closely inspect the stub shaft. It'll give me piece of mind to have a look. Unless it breaks before then. lol
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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We'll find out soon enough. So far it hasn't broken. I think it will continue to be fine. I plan on wheeling this season. Then late fall I'm going to pull the front diff and closely inspect the stub shaft. It'll give me piece of mind to have a look. Unless it breaks before then. lol
Well let me know if it breaks. I have a spare hanging around here somewhere. Have you done anything with the RCV's that you know would have busted a regular CV?
 

theesotericone

Build It Beat It Break It. Repeat
Fredo Baggins
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Have you done anything with the RCV's that you know would have busted a regular CV?

Yeah. I've done some stuff that would be considered hard. Whether it would have broken a stock CV or not is really hard to say but I've got about 70 miles of wheeling on them and nothings broken yet. Compared to 4 on the Dusy in 32 miles. lol
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Yeah. I've done some stuff that would be considered hard. Whether it would have broken a stock CV or not is really hard to say but I've got about 70 miles of wheeling on them and nothings broken yet. Compared to 4 on the Dusy in 32 miles. lol
The Dusy was a whole other thing though. Not sure why the real deal was with those, but limit straps definitely helped I'm guessing. Well do something harder to prove us what the next weak link is... :flipoff:
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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You know I will. So find that spare stub shaft and hand it to me next time I see you. lol
Well I planned on keeping it for myself unless someone else NEEDS it. You don't need it yet, unless you can prove that you can break the stub shaft before an RCV or R&P
 

Maclean216

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Anyone on here with LT, how was the truck in off camber situations after you put the kit on? Noticably more stable?
 
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We've all talked about this before too. I think the front diffs aren't as weak as people think they are. I've personally never seen a R&P failure on a 7.5" or 8" front diff. I've seen spider gears get shredded (@Theblackflag), but with ARB up front, that isn't much of an issue. I'd be more worried about the ADD stub shaft than the R&P.

I agree the front is stronger than the rear and also has less load on it generally, the only time I've seen a front blow was my buddy Phil on Slick Rock a few months back but that was because he blew his rear and was FWD at the time.
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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I agree the front is stronger than the rear and also has less load on it generally, the only time I've seen a front blow was my buddy Phil on Slick Rock a few months back but that was because he blew his rear and was FWD at the time.
And he blew the R&P or just the spider gears?
 

Hank

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IIRC from when I checked mine a couple months ago..... Depends on where it's strapped. If you follow TC's recommended strap point you lose 1.5" of down travel at the wheel and only get around 10" ish. It's not much over stock travel and part of the reason I tell others with upgraded stock length LCAs not to bother with a +2 kit. +2 kits only make sense for people taking their vehicles on trails where track width is an actual issue, for everyone else it's retarded. I just roll my eyes at all these clowns on Instagram putting these things on.:noidea:
Probably depends on how you define "worth it". I look at a lot of people on instagram and I can't understand what is going through their heads, they drop thousands upon thousands of dollars on offroad/overland crap and only use it 2 or 3 times a year. I think those people get caught up in the offroad-big-dick-contest without taking a step back and looking at how much they will actually use what they are buying.

I would still get a +2 kit for just 2 reasons:
1. With a +3.5 kit I wouldn't feel OK around police without fiberglass fenders, my issue with glass fenders is a couple times I year I end up on grossly overgrown tracks with large branches or limbs in the way, I don't know if I would trust fiberglass fenders to hold up to plowing through the undergrowth without getting damaged.
2. On some of the trails we drive on track width can be a seriously liability. Dusy-Ershim, Odessa-Doran, and Elephant Hill Loop would be interesting for a 2nd gen with a +3.5 kit. There aren't a lot of trails where its a serious issue, but they are definitely around and the list isn't limited to those 3. You saw what happened on Dusy between the rock and the tree, there were multiple other places where I had tire sidewalls on both sides of the truck rubbing at the same time.
3. I plan on using the kit on my 2nd gen and 3rd gen.

Number 1 might just be my own personal hang up about fiberglass fenders....they might be perfectly fine getting smashed on limbs, but I don't want to find out first hand that they don't. I think anyone that has a +2 kit and doesn't actually go on track width limited trails is a fucking retard, they should have got a +3.5......or just stayed stock if they don't use their junk much.

Looking at it from a monetary point of view to get a basic TC +2 set up, its fucking expensive.
$3000 - +2 standard kit
$620ish - Extended travel CV axles (quantity 2)
$1520ish - coilovers

That's over $5000 for their shittiest basic set up that's stronger, gets a couple extra inches of travel, and has a tiny bit more stability over stock....How some of these people rationalize that with the little use they get out of it is beyond me. I flat out recommended Kyle and Mike just stay stock width since they already had upgraded LCAs, the little bit of extra travel and stability isn't worth the up front or long term costs.



And just the other night you were telling me to buy that guys +2 kit on TW..... you hypocritical son of a bitch!!!!! hahaha

All of this. The only reason I would ever want to swap mine out is for the secondary bypasses. And for that, I'd probably just swap out my lowers. I don't want any more width.
 
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Whadup! I've posted mine in the 3rd gen thread, but I want to play with the cool kids.
  • What kit do you have? - Total Chaos +3.25 (Boxed) w/ their shock hoop kit too.
  • What suspension are you running? - Kings, 2.5 Coilover w/ resi, 8". Rear is extended shackles on stock height springs -- have Chevy leafs to go in, but I need to be inspired to take the time to put them in....
  • Bumps? - Nah... WE LIVIN ON THE EDGE (of our CV angles) ((read as Steven Tyler))
  • What kind of wheeling do you do? Primarily 'crawl' type wheeling. However, being in the Southeast can make that hard to come by sometimes.
  • What are your rigs limits that's holding you back from being faster or more capable? Rear susp. could use the chevys... other than that, she goes!
  • Any other info you find suitable to share:
    • 35's
    • Hopped up 22re
    • Tacoma e-locker rear, Spartan locker front, 5.29 gears
    • Glass up front
  • Pictures and videos!! Enjoy!

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