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Need some quick input. Found some good deals on beadlocks but unsure what to go with.

These would be .50 in narrower overall. .25 in each side. Doesn’t sound like much and doubt it would rub anything but there’s the possibility.
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These would be an 1.50 in wider overall. 3/4 in each side. Seems like a lot and would put my overall track width at almost 87-88 inches. What do you guys thing.
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I like the machined look better and they are cheaper. Just hesitant about ordering from eBay. And can only get 4 of them at the moment.

Or chance at califab said 225 a wheel shipped and are the same as the first pictures black ones and I could get 5.
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AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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I vote for the narrower option if you won't have any clearance issues. Wider just makes your scrub radius worse (usually), and will be harder on your steering components and hubs. Any idea where your scrub radius is right now?

Also I like the machined look WAY more than black.
 
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I vote for the narrower option if you won't have any clearance issues. Wider just makes your scrub radius worse (usually), and will be harder on your steering components and hubs. Any idea where your scrub radius is right now?

Also I like the machined look WAY more than black.
How does one go about determining scrub radius? Front is a Toyota axle. No spacers but does have the ifs hub swap with Tundra brakes so it’s not factory steering and about 1.5 wider on each side because of this.

I won’t really know about clearance issues till I try them. I don’t think narrowing everything a .25 each will affect anything but there is the chance. I’m thinking if I even order them I’ll just bite the bullet and get the wider ones since the trailer will need to be widened either way
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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You measure the distance from the point your KPI/Steering Axis Inclination hits the ground to the center of your tire contact patch. It should be slightly positive. Based on what I've read is somewhere around +/- .5" positive is ideal. Obviously there are certain things we cannot change, but the variables you can change should be taken into consideration. Rim width. offset, tire width, and tire diameter all play a role on your scrub radius.

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Joined
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You measure the distance from the point your KPI/Steering Axis Inclination hits the ground to the center of your tire contact patch. It should be slightly positive. Based on what I've read is somewhere around +/- .5" positive is ideal. Obviously there are certain things we cannot change, but the variables you can change should be taken into consideration. Rim width. offset, tire width, and tire diameter all play a role on your scrub radius.

View attachment 11404
Damn okay. I’ll look into it. Figure even with going with the wider bs, it’ll still be a .50 in less in scrub radius compared to when I had 1.25 spacers on the front
 

AssBurns

will wheel for beer
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Damn okay. I’ll look into it. Figure even with going with the wider bs, it’ll still be a .50 in less in scrub radius compared to when I had 1.25 spacers on the front
How did it drive with spacers before, and why did you stop using them?

Something to keep in mind as well, is if you plan to go with bigger tires down the line. Larger diameter tire will decrease the scrub radius, which is a good thing when adding more stress on components. It's not good to have negative scrub radius on RWD vehicles. I'm probably making it sound like a bigger deal than it is, but it's always good to be aware of all the variables that can be improved before spending time and money.
 
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How did it drive with spacers before, and why did you stop using them?

Something to keep in mind as well, is if you plan to go with bigger tires down the line. Larger diameter tire will decrease the scrub radius, which is a good thing when adding more stress on components. It's not good to have negative scrub radius on RWD vehicles. I'm probably making it sound like a bigger deal than it is, but it's always good to be aware of all the variables that can be improved before spending time and money.
That was back on 35s and a stock Toyota housing. Before I built the wider front housing to eliminate the spacers. Didn’t notice much of a difference.
These are probably it for big tires. Actually want to go from the 39x13.5 to a 40x12.5 just because I think it drives better. I’ll probably go for them. Can’t be that bad. And 3/4 of an inch shouldn’t make that big of a difference in steering especially since it’s better than what it was. Hopefully don’t have to trim the fenders though
 
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Slowly but surely. A few hours every night after work or in the morning on my days off is starting to pay off. All the frame side brackets are done besides the set bolt for the bump cans. And started welding on the axle in hopes of dropping it off to have the spindles welded this week. Also ordered the machined beadlocks... still need a full size spare tire and wheel.
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Well I've lost all motivation and won't be making trail hero for sure now.. Got the axle all welded with the shock mounts and bump stop pads only to realize i welded the passenger side shock mount on the wrong side of the spring perch... Not sure how i did it but must have just been chugging along and spun the housing around and did it by accident... Still mad at myself but ill just take the plasma and chop it all up and grind it smooth and remake the shock mounts..

At least the welds looked good. IMG_2300.jpg
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this side is correct
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this side is on the inside of the spring perch and wrong..
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Have to cut all these welds and grind it smooth. its al 1/4 in and welded on the inside and out...
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But I did get the diff armor done. Not bad for some cardboard and a small finger press.
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